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Topics - TimMather

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Showcase / Chars Lambo
« on: May 28, 2017, 04:19:33 PM »
zeon lambo, used ashoma lamborghini kit and also a resin liberty walk upgrade kit for the wheels and arches.
had to cut away and resculpt arches so i could get the right stance.
turned out ok, really not happy with the clear parts, but oh well live and learn.

multiple images upload

Showcase / petit bearguy
« on: May 10, 2017, 11:36:43 PM »
filled seams, then primed and wet sanded, then used gaia gloss black, then mixed chameleon pigment powder into gaia gloss clear which is cheaper than using overpriced chameleon model paints, finally i use quartz liquid glass 2 part auto clear for shine.
the pink part was gaia silver, then mr color gx pink clear, with a top coat of liquid glass again.


Reference Material / youtube inspiration videos
« on: April 13, 2017, 12:56:14 AM »
no tutorial videos, no wip videos, only videos of finished work for inspiration.

Showcase / ASW-G-08 Gundam Barbatos Lupus 1/100
« on: March 21, 2017, 06:29:16 AM »
Heres my latest build, made a few color changes, but still mostly standard colors.
ive been getting into painting my inner frames gray and putting more effort into them by putting warnings on the inner frame and also using PE and painting it light gray to give extra detail on the joints.
drilled out forearms and added black metal exhausts, the knees were drilled and screws added, the side skirts were glued, filled and pla plate added to parts where i could not fill seams, the blue part on side skirt is a seporate part, so removed some plastic and added the gold mesh to the vent.
the shoulders were drilled and JAO parts screws were added.
HIQ decals were used for all warnings, and logos are all custom made by wessex transfers, used carbon decal on backpack which i guess isnt really "in-scale" but i like it.
bandai dont make the proper claw hands for the 1/100 kit, but found that you can use use the 1/144 lupus rex oversized hands which are perfect fit for the 1/100 lupus.
color changes...
shoulders went from red outer and white inner, to white outer and red inner.
and changed center of V-fin to white and also made foot claws white to match white claws on hands.
knees were just reverse washed with enamel green and the sword/mace was first reverse washed white and then reverse washed again with the green so its bright.
primer alclad white.
gaia brilliant white
mr color yellow
gaia ultra blue
mr color red
gaia black
inner frame grays mr color 331, 73
humbrol fluro green enamel
gaia blade silver
gaia starbright gold
alclad chrome
gaia clear red(shoulder inner part)

pix image

Showcase / RE 1/100 heeled MSF-007 MKIII
« on: February 05, 2017, 07:40:52 AM »
my version of MSF-007 MKIII, for a scratch building comp on facebook, so did afew mods, firstly gave it a set of high heels, then altered the waist and made length taller and cut away the waist to give it a IBO style with MSG pistons.
the legs i used plaplate and rescribed to give some more interest, also cut away area for rectangle photoetch, also drilled for metal beads, and i boxed off the knee part so looks solid.
outside of backpack i cut away area so looks like a proper vent, also on the wing parts i glued and removed seams that didnt look right, also added 2 feul tanks.
used metal beads, all metal thrusters, photoetch on shoulders and back/side of legs.
on the innerframe i used mr color gloss grays so i could decal the innerframe parts then use satin top coat.
outer armor was sea gray and orange mr color which was primed in white so orange stays bright.
DECALS are mostly hiq warnings and a few 3rd party mk3 logos, numbers are HIQ.
PANEL WASH was charcoal sludge wash and top coat is matt alclad.

Reference Material / mech renders and other random inspiration.
« on: December 12, 2016, 04:10:53 PM »

regulation center nightingale wanted. if anyone has one and wants to sell or trade, PM me and we'll sort something out.

Buying / Selling / Trading Model Kits / model swords, knives and guns.
« on: December 01, 2016, 10:19:50 PM »
selling items on this UK selling group on FB.
1) LOL bow and arrow silver and gold 6
2) 2 red and gold shield 3 blade finger rings 6 each or 10 the pair (modding needed to fit mech)
3) silver bow and arrow 7
4) small katana yellow handle 4 SOLD
5) large brass gatling gun 7 SOLD
6) 2 katanas white and black handle 6 each or 10 a pair(1 SOLD 1 LEFT)
7) katana white and yellow handle 6
8) large black and red ribbon odachi 8
9) chinese ornate sword blue white and gold 7 SOLD
10) final fantasy sword 4 SOLD
11) 2 gold long swords 4 each or pair for 7
heres the photos.
willing to do international shipping but clearly will cost more.

Online Retailers / how to use taobao and bhiner
« on: November 14, 2016, 02:01:20 AM »
taobao is the chinese version of ebay or amazon, it is for the internal of china only.
the reason taobao is so great is you can get all the non bandai stuff at source with taobao alot cheaper by cutting out a ebay middleman(you can save even more from cutting of sales taxes/import taxes as well which il get to later).

to buy things from taobao you need a middleman company, this puts off alot of people but this post is to show you that it may seem confusing but once you get going its a very simple process.

there are lots of middleman companies but i use mostly and have also used taobaotrends(for sets of metal model swords which bhiner wouldnt ship).

il go through the process of ordering on bhiner.

first like any other site, sign up

the searchbar can be used to look for products on taobao or you can copy and paste links to products youve already found on taobao.

lets presume youve got a link for decals youve found on taobao and put it into the bhiner searchbar....

you should see if there are any options for the item, like defferent colors or sizes etc and the price will be shown, however only once youve added the item to your cart will you see the postage from the taobao seller to bhiner. its usually about $3.50 china internal post is really cheap.

the cart page, from here you first get a quote(a quote is so someone at bhiner looks over the order and checks it first before giving them money to buy it) bhiner will also combine internal shipping is youve ordered things from the same taobao vender.

it usually takes 24hrs to get a quote, once youve got a quote you can checkout and buy the item, with paypal.

once youve paid for the item or items, it will be progressed to the order page which is quite self explainatory, once the item is recieved by bhiner they will take photos of it and make sure it is not damaged.

you can either message them and ask what the shipping price will be to your address or you can carry on building up more items before you get it shipped to you.

when you do want the items posted to you, you have the option to lower the value of what the declared price is, so you can not be raped by customs charges and sales taxes.

this is where bhiner really is great, i bought a 350 gsystem kit and only paid 14 customs on it the full customs would have been 70 or 80.

like i said before you can get anything on taobao, half the fun is looking for it. adjusting the value and saving money on customs means even buying bandai kits can be cheaper compared to buying from amazon or ebay.

i use it for modelling tools, for resin kits and hard to find kits.

on taobao search for "GK" or "GK gundam", for tools "ustar".

here are some of the orders ive completed....

Painting / hydrographics tutorial
« on: November 11, 2016, 11:35:50 PM »
ive done this tutorial on facebook, but maybe there people here that have not seen it.
ok hydrographics is a way to make patterned surface on a painted object, its used on many things, phone cases, car wheels, car trim and can be used on models as well.
here is a video showing it.

when doing ultra small modelling parts there are some things you need to take account of, the film wont stretch as much, you will get air bubbles, as the film doesnt stretch onto the part after care is just as important to get a nicely finished surface.

1 what base paint to use to lay the film onto?
i use vellejo primer, but any acrylic paint will do.

2 how long do you leave base paint until you dip?
i leave it for an hour or two before dipping, mainly as if i mess up the dipping, the paint will easily come off with x20 thinner or airbrush cleaner, but you can leave the base paint a whole day, it just wont be easily removed if you mess up.

3 cut the square of film as needed (lick fingers and test which is the sticky side and that faces down) border the cut film with masking tape and leave corners free so film can stretch.

4 you want the water (tepid) not warm or cool to touch, or you can buy a cheap electric thermometer and want it about 30.

5 place film into water make sure of no air bubbles under the film and leave for between 80 and 200 seconds(i would test this first as you can waste parts by the film not being ready to spray the activator).

6 once the film is ready, spray the activator. you should see the film turn to a liquid on the surface, then dip.

7 if the part doesnt come out well you can just rinse off under a tap and put in a bath of x20 or any acrylic airbrush cleaner and clean the part to re-paint the base.

8 if the part has come out well, with no tears you can leave it for 15 minutes so the activator really cuts into the base paint. at this point you may see bubbles of trapped air, this isnt a problem just dont touch them or try and burst them.

9 in the auto world they run parts under a tap but with our parts being so delicate, the best method is to place the part in fresh water to soak for an hour.

10 after soaking the part you should have all the residue melt away(you can tell as when the part dries it will dry matt, if the part still has water soluble film left on the part it will dry shiny)

11 after the part has had a while to dry check for any bubbles left in the film, any bubbles can be removed by very very carefully painting on x20 acrylic thinner or microsol, the film porus at this point and will suck up any thinner and bubbles will disappear, DO NOT TOUCH THE PART WHILE THIS IS HAPPENING just let the thinner take the bubbles out.

12 after an hour or 2 you should see any bubbles gone or greatly reduced, you may have to hit it again with x20, again just leave it to do its thing, ive only ever had to use the thinner no more than twice and it always works.

once you have your parts done and looking good with no air bubbles just leave everything for 24 to 48 hours before you hit it with the clears, after its cured you can use any clear you want although for the best glossy finish 2 pack clears are best

motorcycles aswell

now i get all of the supplies here in the UK from hugas. you will need a can of activator which costs 10 or $15
and the film, you can get a few pounds or dollars per metre DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON DIP KITS they are a rip off.
if you know how to paint programs like gimp or photoshop you can also make your own film and get it printed (A4 size needs atleast 3000dpi) its costs 3 to 5 per A4 sheet, which is pricy but you will have custom film and resize the pattern to a much smaller size as seen on the motorcycle carbon fibre and the sinanju stein snow camo pattern.
hope this gives people ideas for gundam painting.

Showcase / MG Pastel SIDE3 Sinanju
« on: November 11, 2016, 05:25:54 AM »

Works in Progress / re mklll modded
« on: November 03, 2016, 04:57:49 AM »
hay, just finishing up the sinanju so looking to whats next.
i had planned on doing a 1/100 kimaris and have done quite alot of prepping and modding already, but last week i entered a scratch building and modding comp where you have to show an unmodded model at the start so cant so a kimaris.
i also have 3 other modding projects planned but considering it is a 3 month comp i really dont think i could finish those in 3 months so finally settled on doing a mk3.
il do a custom paint, fancy doing high gloss so will get to use the awesome quartz 2 pack clear.
as for mods, this pic got me thinking high heels would look good, the back of the foot would really need sorting.

other mods id like to do are making the front skirts longer and do something with the back skirt.

the last thing would be to take the waist away and do the pistons just like barbatos, not sure i could do that easily so we will see if i can get that done.

so shouldnt be too much to do, infact doing a full gloss will mean il be getting rid of some of those silly corner line/panel line thingys.
no pics yet im still in the planning stage.

Forum Issues / youtube videos on forum?
« on: October 19, 2016, 12:42:49 PM »
is there a way to embed videos in posts, rather than just posting a link, other forums have a video button to embed.

Painting / alcohol removes lacquer paint without damaging plastic.
« on: September 14, 2016, 05:24:28 PM »
ok ive been in the hobby 3 years, ive watched every video, read every blog and not a single person has ever mentioned this!
i dont know weather to be happy or sad. i now have to strip all the cuffs and collars off a sinanju and figure out another paint to use, will try enamel.
was trying to be clever and use a lacquer base then an acrylic over the top which would be rubbed back with reverse wash.
ive used a enamel and then acrylic of kshat cuffs without issue in the past so will try that.

Works in Progress / The Pastel Sinanju
« on: September 13, 2016, 07:42:48 PM »
as forum is just getting started and im half way through this build will give quick overview and then will just dump a ton of pics to get everyone up to speed.

so doing a MG sinanju, with a side3 resin dress up kit and a gold metal parts set.

paint is gaia and mr color pastels, main color was going to be standard emerald green gaia but was too dark so added 50/50 white and now is much nicer warm but light spearmint color, also used yellow and pink and they were also mixed with white to give pastel tone.
also using lavender and gray for the shield and cuffs.
inner frame is gloss white.

dress up kit comes with bazooka and gatlings to fit to shield meaning i can use the stock bazooka and beam rifle combo in other hand for more awesomeness and should help balance everything out meaning i dont need a stand. :P

decals are a mix of 3rd party logos and stripes and for all the warning decals il be using plain white HIQ warnings. i found a over sized (1/60) 3rd party sinanju decal set on taobao meaning i have some really big logos on the kit which is to my taste, but perhaps not to everyones.

i also bought the full armor unicorn fuel tanks a couple of months ago and will use them for a sazabi, that means i can use the sazabi tanks on this kit and have modded them to fit.
will just show some pics of what ive done so far.[/img]

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